Craft beer, a beer made in a traditional or non-mechanized way by a small brewery.  Craft cocktails, a cocktail where every element is handmade or tailored specifically to the drink.  Craft foods, food prepared from high-quality ingredients, as opposed to fast food.

It seems that every segment of the food and drink industry has a different way of defining “craft,” using a definition to suit their needs and sell their product.  But what, really, is “craft,” and how does it apply to the latest trend, craft coffee?

The dictionary defines craft as an art, trade, or occupation requiring special skill, especially manual skill.  Or, as a verb, to craft is to make or manufacture (an object, objects, product, etc.) with skill and careful attention to detail.

In the coffee industry, opportunities for craftsmanship abound at each step of its production—from the farms where the beans are grown to the coffee shop where your drink is carefully constructed.  But it’s more than just the process, it refers to “the pursuit of making a cup of high-quality coffee, while also engaging consumers in the story of the coffee—from the origin of the beans to how it’s brewed in your local coffee shop,” according to Jill Yanish in her article “4 Things to Know About the Craft Coffee Craze.”

Coffee, though, has been around practically since the dawn of time, and legend has it that a goat herder in Ethiopia, whose goats were acting crazy, dancing around, with loads of energy, investigated why and found they were eating cherries in a field.  The goat herder tried the cherries and, according to the legend, he never fell asleep again.  It is presumed that the first cups of coffee were actually more of a stew, made from adding the coffee cherries to large pots of water and then extracting and brewing.

The evolution of coffee from the commodity product it was in the 1950s and 1960s to the delicacy it has become (and continues to evolve to) began with the formation of Starbucks, whose founding members wanted to sell high-quality coffee beans and equipment.  Retail sales began in the mid-1980s, and the evolution picked up speed in the 1990s as Starbucks sought to lure customers with tasty coffee concoctions such as the Frappuccino.

Now, though, many coffee artisans are seeking to follow in the footsteps of the beer, wine, and cocktail industry as they tease out different flavor profiles dependent on the region the beans were grown in, the roasting methods, and brewing technique.

The climate in different growing regions determines how coffee is grown, how it is processed, and how it tastes.  In Kenya, for example, coffee will have savory, grapefruit, and coconut flavor notes, while Ethiopian coffee will be more herbal and tea-like with hints of lavender and sage.  And in Latin America, coffees tend to impart chocolatey and caramel flavors.

Beyond climate, how coffee is roasted will affect the flavor.  Lighter roasts tend to be more acidic and convey floral and citrus notes.  Medium roasts are sweeter and the sweetness tends to last as you sip, and darker roasts are higher in aroma due to reduced acids and oils.

And finally, how coffee is brewed will also play a part in determining the final outcome of your cup of coffee.  Pressed coffees and pour-overs, automatic drips, and percolators all impart different flavors.

What small-batch coffee artisans do, then, much as craft brewers or wine makers, is to experiment with different regional coffees, different roasting methods, and subsequent brewing styles to create a complex cup of coffee that consumers can experience rather than just drink.  Fading away are the days where your daily cup of coffee is simply a “bolt of energy,” and we are welcoming these new subtle nuances of plums, chocolate, pineapple, caramel, herbs, and spices.

Welcome to the craft coffee craze.  I think you will enjoy the ride.